Madhya Pradesh, a state in the middle of the colourful country of India, is as beautiful as it is unexplored. On our weekend trip to Rishikesh this summer, we (my brother, a friend, and I) met a man in the hostel where we were staying. He was stuck in Rishikesh for a day after a work trip had gone a little awry and was looking for some company to explore the place. We thought, the more, the merrier. As we explored the town together, we talked, of course, about food, geopolitics, his and our work lives, and so on. It was then that he shared that he was from Gwalior, a small city in MP, and urged me and my friend to visit the place after learning of our love of exploration.
If I’m being honest, Gwalior was never on the wishful travel list that my friend and I had created recently. But, after listening to him describe the place with so much love, which would come naturally to him, I knew (it is his hometown after all), that his description and Google images of the Gwalior Fort and Scindia Palace, and the city being only three hours’ travel from Delhi, put Gwalior not only on the list but at the top. So, a few months after that fated encounter, my friend and I took an early morning express train from Delhi to Gwalior. We booked a small, affordable hotel in the middle of the main market, considering that we were two girls in a town where we knew no one personally. Very much according to the online reviews, the hotel staff turned out to be nice, helpful, and reliable. So, quick tip, guys (especially girls), always check online reviews of properties you are looking to stay at. ALWAYS. Preferably, across platforms.
Now, we had two days and three nights in Gwalior to explore. Technically, two days for Gwalior, because we spent one day on a quick trip to a nearby beautiful city, Orchha.
What places should you visit in Gwalior and how to go about it?
While a small city, Gwalior has a few must-visit places for the travel enthusiast, but most importantly, for the history enthusiast in you. In this article, we go through the Gwalior Fort, what to see and how to go. The city is also popular for the Jai Vilas Palace, which exudes absolute royalty, grace, and power with its stunning architectural model and enthralling collection of pieces across time and space. An hour away from the history-rich land of Gwalior, in a small village in Morena, also stands one of the four Chausath Yogini temples and the astounding Bateshwar temples.
Gwalior Fort
Starting with the place Gwalior has been known for centuries: The Gwalior Fort. The majestic beauty, made of Vidhyan sandstone, lime and mortar, stands at the top of a small, isolated hill in the city. Built as early as the 6th century, at the behest of King Suraj Pal (I don’t want to say built by Suraj Sen, because, come on, we know nobles didn’t like lifting even a fan to fan themselves in summer), the fort has stood the test of time. PS: We should be partially thankful to our governments for trying to maintain these monuments.
What’s the origin story?
Suraj Sen (later King Suraj Pal) was suffering from leprosy. It is believed that once the noble was roaming the forests thirsty when a sage named Gwalipa offered him water from a pond. The water, believed to be sacred, cured Suraj Sen, and the thankful noble, as a way of offering his thanks to the sage, decided upon building a fort and a city there, giving them the name of the Sage Gwalipa – and hence, the city Gwalior. It was the sage who gave the family name Pala to Suraj Sen.
What happened next?
After ruling over the city for 16 generations, the fort was taken over by different dynasties. But the Fort is popular as one of the forts that cannot be easily conquered. In fact, it took the British several attempts to capture the fort in the 1800s from the Shinde dynasty, who controlled the fort then.
Many structures in the fort complex and on the hill have been built at the behest of the subsequent dynasties and rulers like the Hunas, the Gurjara-Pratiharas, the Kachchhapaghatas, and the Tomars.
What are the other major structures in Gwalior Fort?
- Gujari Mahal: King Maan Singh Tomar in the 15th century made a separate palace for his ninth and youngest wife, Mrignayani, (quite literally, too) at the foot of the hill.
- Chaturbhuj Temple: Also known as the Temple of Zero, as it is one of the earliest known inscriptions of the symbol ‘0’ in architecture, it was constructed in 875 AD. The temple, carved out of the hill, was possibly constructed in dedication to the four-armed Vishnu and Lakshmi (Indian gods), which also gives it its name.
- Saas Bahu Mandir: Twin temples constructed around 1000 AD. They are dedicated to two Hindu Gods, Shiva and Vishnu. Hindi-speaking readers would know that interestingly, the name of the temple literally translates to ‘Mother-in-law and daughter-in-law.’ People believe that it is supposed to represent the interdependency of the two in a family and also of the two Gods they are dedicated to.
- Teli ka Mandir: Believed to have been constructed by a group of merchants, the temple was possibly used by the group to pray for good business and wealth in the city. Standing atop the hill, the temple is a beauty to behold.
- Surajkund: The sacred pond from the Suraj Sen story.
One of the later kings of the fort, Maan Singh Tomar, who commissioned the construction of many structures present on the hill today, also had the construction of Siddhachal Caves completed in his reign. The caves, depicting the 24 Tirthankaras in the Kayotsarga posture of meditation, are believed to have started in the 7th century. The precision and beauty with which these caves are carved out of the hill are sure to make you stand, looking up in awe.
Much like many historical places, if you’re going only to click photos, feel free to explore the nooks and corners of the fort and gawk at the beautiful inscriptions. And, if you want an immersive experience, I recommend hiring a guide. Yes, Wikipedia is amazing with the history, but guides can share interesting facts, like how King Maan Singh Tomar, after the construction of Gujari Mahal, commissioned the construction of a carefully crafted ventilation tunnel through the hill so that he could signal to his other wives of his departure when he would start from his youngest wife’s palace for the main fort. I recommend bargaining if they quote an amount out of your budget, but if you can afford it, pay the guides’ full due and enjoy the history with not only its glory but also interesting anecdotes and the tragic love story of Maan Singh and Mrignayani.
How to go?
Shared autos, cabs, and autos drop everyone off at the Fort complex’s first entrance, right before the steep hill starts. So, either you rent a scooty (if you’re confident in your driving skills on steep hills), book one of the cabs available at the entrance, or walk. For those who like to travel inexpensively and are fit physically, walking is an option because the cabs at the entrance have some sort of an arrangement to exclusively operate in the fort complex for tourists and, therefore, may charge a lot.
You can go to the Fort towards the afternoon, after utilising your time to explore other small places like the Tomb of Tulsidas, Tomb of Ghaus, or the Sun Temple. But make sure to keep 4–5 hours separate for the Gwalior Fort. Keep in mind that some complexes like Gujari Mahal close at 5 PM. If you can afford to, you can also stay for the Light and Sound show at the Gwalior Fort. At a cost of Rs 250, you get a well-animated show displayed across the fort and the garden at 7 in the evening. In Amitabh Bacchan’s voice, the show in Hindi is enchanting in a way that I never thought was possible. Sitting at the hilltop, as the sunset colors fade and dusk’s blue starts taking over, the show feels like the fort is telling its own story in a garden, under a tree..
